Dharamsala to Amritsar

A Surprisingly Arduous Journey

Our journey from Dharamsala to Amritsar was absolute madness. The traffic congestion, road closures, detours, and holiday celebrations in honor of Baba Buddha (1506-1631) made traveling quite arduous.


As we finally entered the Amritsar district, I could feel the frustration in the air as traffic turned into a constant stop-and-go rhythm. Each time we halted, I noticed a group of Sikh boys eagerly jumping onto our jeep, ready to clean it and enthusiastically offer beverages. It seemed almost normal to me, but since most of the team members have never traveled in this manner, their reaction was funny. Some thought we were being overwhelmed or even attacked. I took a moment to reassure them, explaining that the holiday was a time for celebration, and the local people were simply expressing their hospitality by cleaning vehicles and offering drinks to travelers along the busy roads. They were not begging or asking for handouts, nor trying to harm us.

We left Dharamsala in the early afternoon but did not reach Amritsar until about 8 PM. Our new drivers were not very skilled, and we really missed our Punjabi-speaking Tibetan drivers. Once we arrived in Amritsar, Tom and his other guide, Hekani, arranged for us to stay at a guest house that was unsettling and rather creepy for most of the team. Some team members refused to stay there, so we opted for the "Ritz Plaza". I wasn’t thrilled about it, but it was the best option we had at that point of the night. It had been an overwhelming day of travel for the team so having a place to stay for the night provided a sense of calm.

The government of Punjab needs to consider improving the conditions of their roads and highways, along with more practical design and infrastructure. Perhaps they could entertain proposals from experts in engineering and architecture as a starting point for much-needed reform and restructuring.

The highlight of our visit to Amritsar was undoubtedly Harimandar Sahib, known as the Sikh Golden Temple to many westerners. Its architectural beauty and serene ambiance left a lasting impression on all of us. Sitting by the water's edge near the Gurudwara instilled a deep sense of peace. I sincerely hope that the administrators continue to uphold its beauty and protect it from any deterioration, as it is a cherished sanctuary for so many.