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11 November 2006

My November Posts

India Mission

Our mission in India focused on conducting field research to assess educational and societal issues in rural areas. We aimed to provide funding and programming support to select schools and initiatives that would yield long-term benefits. Our team consisted of one American man, five American women from diverse ethnic backgrounds, and one Indian woman living in Delhi (not pictured below). This eclectic mix brought together different experiences and strengths, which enriched our efforts. I am grateful to my team members, who were genuine in their personal endeavors.


Pictured above are Angela, Cherlyn, Tom, Lisa, Rebecca, and myself.

We developed various ideas and outlined plans to address some of the challenges we encountered in the schools. As the Legal & Education Coordinator at the Center for Community Legal Education in San Francisco, I served as the project leader, translator, writer, and photographer for our group. I also compiled our observations, reflections, and experiences in this blog. My recent posts aim to highlight regions that are often overlooked by global philanthropists.


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10 November 2006

Tibetans in Dharamsala, India


Dharamsala, city of exile for His Holiness the Dalai Lama and his Tibetan people, has become a very diversified place over the last fifty years. It is like a second home to many Western people, including celebrities, who cheer and support the Tibetan cause.

It is rather easy to get around in Dharamsala since there is much Western influence, but getting there is the hard part! We were fortunate enough to have a reliable driver from Delhi. "Jack," our Tibetan driver had a broad range of influences. He was born and raised in India, speaks English, Tibetan, Punjabi, Hindi, and many other languages, and is learning Spanish and French! He went to Punjab University in Chandigardh, is a practicing Buddhist, and listens to many genres of music. On our drive, he played a wild range of music videos including Snoop Dogg, Maroon 5, Eagles, Cat Stevens, Bhangra, Tibetan, Chinese, and many others. He is the proud father of a baby girl with his wife, whom we had a brief chance to meet in Dharamsala.

The Tibetans, in general, had very genuine qualities of kindness, peacefulness, and an abundant openness to people of all walks of life. Jack, a modern Tibetan in my view, had a fusion of cultural influences from his proud Tibetan heritage, his upbringing in India, interactions with Western travelers, and the effects of globalization.

Many Tibetans in Dharamsala were very open about the growing concern of the survival of their Tibetan culture and identity. Nevertheless, it was refreshing to see that many Tibetans including Jack were adjusting well to modernization, yet thoroughly practicing their religion and honoring their heritage.

Tibetans are doing many things to preserve their culture and promote their cause by having cultural shows, presentations, and concerts. This attracts Western attention, and Dharamsala definitely had many foreigners compared to surrounding areas like Punjab and other states. In the five days we were in Dharamsala, the Tibetans had a protest against the Chinese government's atrocities, Tibetan cultural shows, a candlelight vigil, and a concert against drugs and to promote AIDS awareness.

The Tibetan Unemployment Co-operative Society was happy to announce that weekly a group of new arrival artists from Tibet will entertain visitors, educate the public on Tibetan identity, and encourage support of Tibetan youths.

We noticed pictures of the missing Panchen Lama posted all over Dharamsala. I guess that keeps the search ongoing and keeps fresh the memories of a lost Tibet. Panchen Lama is a title like Vice-President or Prime Minister. According to the Tibetans, the Panchen Lama was 6 years old when he and his parents were "kidnapped" from their home in Tibet by the Chinese government. He has been missing for over 6 years. Panchen means "Great Scholar" and Lama is a word Tibetans use for a religious teacher. Tibetans believe that the Panchen Lama is the protector of all the world's living beings.

Dharamsala

09 November 2006

Village Conditions in Jalundhar District, Punjab

Village Mindset



One of the few homes with a door, home of Late Jagat Singh and his family

During our visit to several villages in the Jalandhar District, we observed a notable disparity between the urban centers and the rural communities. The cities in Punjab face challenges such as pollution, primarily due to smog, as well as issues related to city planning and inadequate landscaping. Nevertheless, these urban areas still enjoy access to essential resources, technology, and modern amenities.
Radisson in Jalundhar city

In contrast, the villages serve as the heart of Punjab’s agricultural workforce, highlighting the region's reputation as the agricultural capital of India. The scenic farms, adorned with lush green pastures, offer a refreshing reprieve from the urban environment. However, we found that many homes in the villages we visited were in significant disrepair.

For instance, in the central area of Khaira Majja village, we noted a few larger houses amidst several that were considerably deteriorated. The stark contrast between the well-maintained home and its dilapidated neighbors was striking, revealing the depth of poverty present in the area.

The women of the village welcomed us graciously, sharing insights into their living conditions. Many residences consisted of one bedroom accommodating multiple family members, with kitchen facilities integrated into the bedroom.

Some team members offered the women money, but I felt conflicted. I know people of Punjab, in general, to be prideful and hardworking people. Many of the women expressed their emotions, tears of pride and sadness evident on their faces, with some of the women reluctantly taking the money. I understood the pride in not wanting to take it, but I was certain that they would use that cash to buy food or necessities for their children.

One woman openly greeted us and said, "Welcome to the homes of the poor. What can we do for you?"

As I looked around, examining their homes, the narrow alleys leading to them, and the overall well-being of the small community, I identified the most significant issue: the mindset of the people.

The weight of poverty can create a sense of hopelessness, making it challenging for individuals to envision pathways to empowerment and improvement for their community. Yet, the resilience and optimism of the Punjabi people were evident. Our team was inspired by the small but meaningful initiatives underway, such as the development of a small generator, the construction of a model school for younger children, and efforts to establish a proper sewage disposal system. The village people were clearly committed to investing in the future of their children, They shared the belief that "we've lived our life and it isn't going to change much, but maybe we could make it a little better for our children."

Pictured above is a "Narlka," which is where several families get their water source for cooking, bathing, and washing.

It is crucial for the state government to enhance support for these communities through increased funding for education, improved access to basic utilities such as electricity and water, and enhanced healthcare services. Additionally, it would be beneficial for villagers to embrace a more proactive approach to uplift their communities, moving beyond a mindset of helplessness toward tangible progress. I firmly believe that one's internal environment greatly influences their external surroundings. If individuals find themselves in challenging mental and physical living situations, it can hinder community vitality.

Approximately 99% of the homes we observed in this village were deteriorating, appearing extremely tarnished and abandoned, even though entire families were living in them. I understand that constructive change must begin from within and then radiate outward. Unfortunately, the villagers cannot implement these changes on their own; they need resources, practical tools, and assistance from external sources.

Pictured are young girls trying to keep a home clean by sweeping the floors.

Mrs. Singh, who is the Sarpanch of the village (leader of the Panchayat), stands before her husband to greet us.

Primary Khalsa Public School, Jalundhar, Part II

JALUNDHAR, PUNJAB



This is the Model Primary School that the village panchayat (local lawmakers) has started and is still trying to build. The kids are primarily in nursery to the 5th grade. For primary education, there is free education until the beginning of 6th grade at government aided public schools. However, according to the teachers, when the kids were entering junior high, they did not know basics in language, math, science so the model school was established. The village is struggling to make ends meet, there is a lack of books, writing utensils, paper, supplies, proper lighting, and classroom space.
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The youngsters were precious, and so shy when they first met us! Team member Rebecca brought them markers, crayons, and candy for which they were thrilled.

Pictured are two preschool students, and the school bus for the little kids. The older ones walk or ride their bikes.

The students definitely were not shy anymore after we went to their classrooms, held discussions, answered their questions, and introduced them to an IPod and computers.

The adjoining land where the school hopes to expand the preschool to accomodate the students.

Lisa taking copious notes with Cherlyn walking outside the Khalsa Public School.
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Rebecca and I at the Primary School. Tom ready to go after our wonderful time at the school.

Rural Senior Secondary School, Jalundhar, Part I

KHALSA SENIOR SECONDARY SCHOOL, JALUNDHAR




One of our most moving experiences took place at Khalsa Public School, where the innocence of the children, the candidness of the mostly female teachers, and the genuine concern of the village panchayat (local village government) for the welfare of their children deeply touched us. They welcomed us with open arms and genuine excitement upon our arrival. This village is the ancestral home of some of my relatives, and since it was my first visit, the experience felt all the more special.

Here is the school committee greeting us on our arrival. "Welcome" inscribed and a flower drawn in chalk.

School Comittee members, teachers, students, and our group on our arrival.

During our visit to the school, we interviewed 3 teachers who taught Punjabi language, Arts & Crafts, and Mathematics.
They were very candid about the conditions of the schools, highlighting the lack of educational resources and the absence of technology for the students. We also inquired about serious issues such as infanticide, domestic violence, and caste discrimination. The responses we received were incredibly informative and insightful, shedding light on the challenges faced by the community. I plan to discuss these topics in more detail in a future post.
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Their charisma was contagious, and it was unfortunate that there is a lack of public resources for these women to expand their horizons. They need access to technology to enhance their teaching and to educate other women, thereby improving their status. We decided to offer future support that could potentially be sustainable for these women and children. The school committee, while generous, open-minded and dedicated to improvement, would greatly benefit from additional educational support, as many members lack formal education which makes it challenging to provide the children with the resources they need. Outside resources, international involvement, philanthropic interest, and dedicated individuals with educational backgrounds could help transform this village.

Rebecca got the children excited about her iPod, which most of them had either never heard of or seen in person. We conducted a poll, asking over 100 students if they had ever used a computer; surprisingly, only one boy said he had used one just once. With over 700 students in total, the school lacks a single computer.

Lisa taking part in class! These students who were so eager to learn. The students were beautifully diverse coming from various Punjabi backgrounds and representing Sikh, Hindu, and Christian faiths.

Keep Ludhiana "Clean & Green"

It is noble to desire helping those who are substantially less fortunate; however the reality of providing any direct assistance or relief is much more complicated and stressful. For me, there was the overwhelming realization that many of the people I came into contact with live in and amongst poverty. It is a way of life and part of the mindset of people, and prevalent on all levels. The blame can be laid on so many people, the government, global corporations, and even the impoverished individuals themselves. People with power and leverage need to re-evaluate how they conduct their business and re-assess the the quality of the laws they pass. Locals need practical tools, knowledge, and a new way of thinking in overcoming poverty.

After our time in Delhi, we made our first brief stop in Ludhiana, Punjab, an industrial city that left a lasting impression on me (see photos). It is plagued by severe pollution, and stood out against other locations I have visited. Many members of my team fell ill within minutes of our arrival. It would be invaluable to explore whether environmental testing and research have been conducted in this area. Team member Rebecca Cohn, who is currently a CA legislator, called for enhanced scrutiny from environmental agencies in a region that seems at risk for significant health issues, including respiratory diseases and cancers.

Despite the presence of signs urging citizens to "Keep City Clean and Green," the disconnect between such initiatives and practical outcomes is glaring. My observations over multiple visits—1998, 2003, and 2006—highlight a troubling trend of worsening conditions across Ludhiana and other Punjab cities. Engaging with locals, I found a unanimous acknowledgment of the pollution challenge; however, this awareness is not matched by the capacity to enact change. Many residents prioritize immediate survival, focusing solely on meeting daily needs, which leaves little room for environmental advocacy or education. Even if they are doing well financially, they have little to no knowledge about environmental protections, safeguards, or what practical things can be done to prevent further degradation. In a nation grappling with such a vast population, I felt the perception of disenfranchisement among locals is palpable. Perhaps many feel their voices are drowned out in the larger conversation about development and industrial growth. Yet, perhaps, many might think that if their city has more industrial growth, it will help them become financially better off, so environmental concerns take a back seat.

So, what can be done? A significant opportunity lies with the international community. Collaborative efforts from organizations like the United Nations, global corporations, and environmental agencies are essential for fostering educational initiatives that empower both governments and local populations in countries like India. Even if efforts are currently underway, they need to be expanded on a larger scale. I empathize with the simple villagers, farmers, and other workers who bear the brunt of globalization and industrialization without adequate environmental protections in place.


During our short stop in Ludhiana, there was a constant veil of smog making it difficult to breathe. Ludhiana, October 18, 2006.

Environmental Degradation in Punjab

This picture captures a moment from our journey to Jalandhar along GT Road in Ludhiana, India—the country of my family's origins. India is a unique and profoundly diverse nation. It is both striking and troubling to witness the huge contrast between the widespread poverty and the significant wealth that coexist in this land. This was my third trip to India as an adult, and I continue to observe the challenges it faces. Despite various efforts to enhance its economy, the country still suffers from inadequate infrastructure and ongoing environmental degradation.


Team members, Cherlyn and Lisa, take measures to alleviate the congestion they feel in Ludhiana. October 18, 2006.


Local Punjabi girl covering up due to the pollution in Ludhiana, the Industrial city of India. Ludhiana, Punjab, October 18, 2006.

08 November 2006

Crazy Drive on GT Road

PUNJAB


Map of Punjab (click to view)


The main highway from Delhi to Punjab is known as GT Road. Getting out of Delhi can be chaotic and filled with unexpected turns. But once you’re through it, the real adventure begins! If you have a strong stomach and can handle the twists and turns without turning green, you’re in for a wild ride. If not, I highly recommend taking the train. As we cruise along, we blast through Haryana, which used to be part of Punjab. The drive felt like an episode of the Twilight Zone, where constant honking horns, rikshas, trucks and wagons coexist with cows that act like they own the road. Along the way, you will see ancient temples, dhabas (roadside restaurant & truck stop), and people from various Indian cultures. Seriously, it’s a mix of old, new, Eastern, and Western influences that creates a kind of chaos that keeps your heart racing—just like the traffic!


Elderly Sikh man on his tractor


Big colorful trucks


Angela greeting roadside mechanics


Not uncommon at all! How they hey stays on is a mystery.


All kinds of farm vehicles on GT Road.


Farmers come up with creative ways to transport their goods.


Bags of wheat, hay, cotton and other goods. Punjab is the breadbasket of India. Most people from Punjab are "Jatts" by caste indicative of their farming status. The majority of Punjabi people are of the Sikh faith although they barely make up 2% of India's population.

Kids next to a tractor


Sikh man and his wife fixin' the old bike

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Hekani, Angela and Lisa taking a break and Cherlyn, the little hipster, taking a walk on our way to Jalundhar, Punjab


Standing nearby a Sikh Gurudwara (aka Temple) and a "Dhaba" which is like an roadside restaurant & truck stop. I have found Dhabas to be more reliable than many restaurants because the food is fresh and made to order. I stick to vegetarian most of the time, and will eat meat when I know it is fresh or has proper refrigeration, and the place is trustworthy. Don't be fooled by the cleanliness and modernlike feeling of a restaurant in India- they aren't always the best in terms of taste, quality and safety! I learned through experience!


Hmmm, not quite holding it upright, here is a Sikh man living in Punjab selling US flags at his little shop. He was quite thrilled to see a bunch of Americans passing through.


Before thinking someone's a bad driver, think again in India! Honking the horn is essential (yes, it gets annoying, but don't worry, one gets used to it); drivers communicate by way of blowing their horns, and NOBODY stays on their side of the road in the cities. The lane dividers are purely incidental!


Jack, our cool and calm Tibetan driver, listens to Snoop Dogg in the midst of madness (traffic congestion, pollution, excessive honking, and noise!). It was an insane drive but we had so much fun!

 
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