My November Posts

My India Posts & the India Team

Our team consisted of 1 American man, 5 American women of different ethnic backgrounds and 1 Indian woman living in Delhi (not pictured below). It was an interesting mix, we all had different experiences and various strengths to add to the pot! I am thankful to my team members who were very genuine in their personal endeavors.


Pictured above: Angela, Cherlyn, Tom, Lisa, Rebecca, and me

We cultivated wonderful ideas and plan to tackle some of the problems we saw in the schools.

Before heading out on our expedition to India, I decided to blog my observations, reflections, and adventures. My recent posts are intended to share these adventures and expose regions generally not on the radar of global philanthropists.


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Tibetans in Dharamsala, India

Dharamsala, city of exile for His Holiness the Dalai Lama and his Tibetan people, has become a very diversified place over the last fifty years. It is like a second home to many Western people, including celebrities, who cheer and support the Tibetan cause.

It is rather easy to get around in Dharamsala since there is much Western influence, but getting there is the hard part! We were fortunate enough to have a reliable driver from Delhi. "Jack," our Tibetan driver had a broad range of influences. He was born and raised in India, speaks English, Tibetan, Punjabi, Hindi, and many other languages, and is learning Spanish and French! He went to Punjab University in Chandigardh, is a practicing Buddhist, and listens to many genres of music. On our drive, he played a wild range of music videos including Snoop Dogg, Maroon 5, Eagles, Cat Stevens, Bhangra, Tibetan, Chinese, and many others. He is the proud father of a baby girl with his wife, whom we had a brief chance to meet in Dharamsala.

The Tibetans, in general, had very genuine qualities of kindness, peacefulness, and an abundant openness to people of all walks of life. Jack, a modern Tibetan in my view, had a fusion of cultural influences from his proud Tibetan heritage, his upbringing in India, interactions with Western travelers, and the effects of globalization.

Many Tibetans in Dharamsala were very open about the growing concern of the survival of their Tibetan culture and identity. Nevertheless, it was refreshing to see that many Tibetans including Jack were adjusting well to modernization, yet thoroughly practicing their religion and honoring their heritage.

Tibetans are doing many things to preserve their culture and promote their cause by having cultural shows, presentations, and concerts. This attracts Western attention, and Dharamsala definitely had many foreigners compared to surrounding areas like Punjab and other states. In the five days we were in Dharamsala, the Tibetans had a protest against the Chinese government's atrocities, Tibetan cultural shows, a candlelight vigil, and a concert against drugs and to promote AIDS awareness.

The Tibetan Unemployment Co-operative Society was happy to announce that weekly a group of new arrival artists from Tibet will entertain visitors, educate the public on Tibetan identity, and encourage support of Tibetan youths.

We noticed pictures of the missing Panchen Lama posted all over Dharamsala. I guess that keeps the search ongoing and keeps fresh the memories of a lost Tibet. Panchen Lama is a title like Vice-President or Prime Minister. According to the Tibetans, the Panchen Lama was 6 years old when he and his parents were "kidnapped" from their home in Tibet by the Chinese government. He has been missing for over 6 years. Panchen means "Great Scholar" and Lama is a word Tibetans use for a religious teacher. Tibetans believe that the Panchen Lama is the protector of all the world's living beings.

Dharamsala

Village Conditions in Jalundhar District, Punjab

Village Mindset

One of the few homes with a door, home of Late Jagat Singh and his family

As we roamed around a few villages in the Jalundhar District, there seemed to be a disconnect between the city proper and the villages. The cities in Punjab are polluted because of the smog, lack of proper city planning, landscaping, or a practical plan. Fortunately the cities still have access to resources, technology and modern amenities. We stayed at the Radisson in Jalundhar (I did not realize there was a Radisson there until I made our booking).
Radisson in Jalundhar city

The villages, on the other hand, are the centers and homes of the farmworkers of Punjab, which is the agricultural capital of India. The farms of Punjab are beautiful with long pastures of green; it is a nice getaway from the harsh conditions of the cities. The villages are usually located in the midst of the farms. Unfortunately, the homes in villages we examined are poorly constructed and falling apart.

For instance, the central part of Khaira Majja village had about 1-2 larger homes with surrounding homes that were completely dilapidated. It was such a contrast seeing one fairly nice home with the attached surrounding homes falling apart (walls broken in, no roofs or doors). The immense amount of poverty was mind blowing to us.

The women who lived in these homes were very kind and let us in to examine the conditions. Most of the homes were 1 bedroom with about 3-5 people sleeping there, and the kitchen being directly in the bedroom.

Some of the team members gave the women money although I took a step back at that moment. I think the better way to help is through sustainable options rather than handouts. Many of the women were weeping out of pride and sadness. One woman openly greeted us and said, "Welcome to the homes of the poor. What can we do for you?"

I began looking around, examining their homes, the little alleys leading to their homes, and the general well being of the small community. The largest problem (aside from the governments lack of public assistance) lay in the mindset of the people. They are living in poverty and have allowed it to take over their lives.

They seem a depressed people who do not know how to empower themselves to get their community out of the extreme conditions. But alas, despite the depressive state, the Punjabis are an optimistic people. The potential our team saw in the community was inspiring. There were little steps being taken (ie, the addition of a small generator, the partial construction a model school for the primary children, attempts at creating s system for proper sewage disposal, etc). Many seemed to be investing in their kids in any way they could. Most of the village people shared the belief that "we've lived our life and it isn't going to change much, but maybe we could make it a little better for our children."

Pictured above is a "Narlka," which is where several families get their water source for cooking, bathing, and washing.

The state government definitely needs to help their people through more funding of the schools, better electricity and water for the residents, and access to proper health care. The villagers need to invest in their communities, lift themselves out of the "we are poor and helpless" mindset, and start making solid improvements. I believe that how you live inside is indicative of what you will produce outside. For instance, if a person is living in an extremely depressed state of mind and their home surroundings are filthy and unkempt, then the likelihood of their community being pleasant and organized is highly unlikely.

About 99% of the homes we saw in this village were breaking down, extremely tarnished and abandoned-looking although there were whole families living in them! The spiritual and practical side of me realizes that constructive change has to start from the inside, and then it can permeate outwards! Unfortunately the villagers cannot make the changes themselves; they need resources, practical tools, and assistance from external sources.

Pictured are young girls trying to keep a home clean by sweeping the floors.

Mrs. Singh, who is the Sarpanch of the village (leader of the Panchayat), stands before her husband to greet us.

Primary Khalsa Public School, Jalundhar, Part II

JALUNDHAR, PUNJAB

This is the Model Primary School that the village panchayat (local lawmakers) has started and is still trying to build. The kids are primarily in nursery to the 5th grade. For primary education, there is free education until the beginning of 6th grade at government aided public schools. However, according to the teachers, when the kids were entering junior high, they did not know basics in language, math, science so the model school was established. The village is struggling to make ends meet, there is a lack of books, writing utensils, paper, supplies, proper lighting, and classroom space.

The youngsters were precious, and so shy when they first met us! Rebecca brought them markers, crayons, and candy for which they were thrilled.

Pictured are two preschool students, and the school bus for the little kids. The older ones walk or ride their bikes.

The students definitely were not shy anymore after we went to their classrooms, held discussions, answered their questions, and introduced them to an IPod and computers.

The adjoining land where the preschool is being expanded to accomodate the students.

Lisa taking copious notes with Cherlyn walking outside the Khalsa Public School.

Rebecca and I at the Primary School. Tom ready to go after our time at the school.

Rural Senior Secondary School, Jalundhar, Part I

KHALSA SENIOR SECONDARY SCHOOL, JALUNDHAR

This was one of our most moving experiences because of the innocence of the children, candidness of the mostly female teachers, and genuine concern of the village panchayat (local village government) about the welfare of their children. They greeted us with open arms and pure excitement at our arrival to the Khalsa Public School. This is the ancestral village of some of my relatives and since this was my first trip to this village, it was very special.

Here is the school committee greeting us on our arrival. "Welcome" inscribed and a flower drawn in chalk.

School Comittee members, teachers, students, and our group on our arrival.

During our visit to the school, we interviewed 3 teachers in various subjects: Punjabi language, Arts & Craft, and Mathematics.
They were very candid about the conditions of the schools, the lack of education support, and zero technology for students. We also asked them about issues of infanticide, domestic violence, and caste discriminations. We recieved very informative responses which I will discuss in a future post.

Their charisma was contagious, and we found it all too unfortunate that there is a lack of public resources for these women to expand their horizons, make use of technology to teach their classes, and to educate other women to enhance their status. We decided that we would create future projects that could potentially be sustainable for these women and children. The committee of the school, although very generous, open and dedicated to improving the school, were mostly uneducated themselves, which makes it hard to provide the children with what they need. Outside resources, international involvement, philanthropic interest, and dedicated individuals who are educated could help turn this village around.

Rebecca really got the children excited with her IPod, something they have never heard of. We took a poll and asked over 100 students if they have used a computer, and we had one boy said he has one time. There are well over 700 students and not a single computer. The school is comprised of Punjabi students who are of Sikh, Hindu and Christian faiths

Lisa taking part in class! These students who were so eager to learn.

Keep Ludhiana "Clean & Green"

It is noble to desire helping those who are substantially less fortunate; however the reality of providing any direct assistance or relief is much more complicated and stressful. For me, there was the overwhelming realization that many of the people I came into contact with live in and amongst poverty. It is a way of life and part of the mindset of people, and prevalent on all levels. The blame can be laid on so many people, the government, global corporations, and even the impoverished individuals themselves. People with power and leverage need to re-evaluate how they conduct their business and re-assess the the quality of the laws they pass. Locals need practical tools, knowledge, and a new way of thinking in overcoming poverty.

After Delhi, our first brief stop was in the industrial city of Ludhiana, Punjab (see photos). Of anywhere I have traveled, Ludhiana had the worst pollution I have experienced. Most of my team members became sick within minutes of being there. It would be interesting to learn whether any environmental tests and research projects have been conducted there. Assemblywomen Rebecca Cohn, who was also on the trip, stressed the need of environmental agencies to examine the conditions of Ludhiana, a highly industrialized waste of a city. I would not be surprised if people start developing cancers or other sickness from what they are breathing in everyday. Very distressing.

There were a few signs that read, "Keep City Clean and Green." Perhaps that was an initiative taken by a local agency or the government, but it doesn't appear to have made any constructive difference. I visited Punjab in 1998, 2003 and now in 2006. Each time I have been privy to the worsening conditions of Ludhiana, and other cities in Punjab. I mention the pollution problem to various locals, and they always agree with the issue of pollution. However, they have no tools, education, or means to improve the conditions. They barely make it through the day to feed their families. Even if they are doing well financially, they have no clue as to environmental protections, safeguards, or what practical things can be done to prevent further degradation. They are powerless in a system that envelopes them, in a country with so many people, I do not think many locals feel they have a voice.

So what can be done? I think a lot of power is in the hands of the international community. The United Nations, global corporations, and environmental agencies need to team up and educate the governments and local people of developing countries like India. Even if such work is currently being done, it needs to be guaranteed on a larger scale. I feel for simple villagers who suffer at the expense of globalization and industrialization without any proper environmental safeguards.

During our short stop in Ludhiana, there was a constant veil of smog making it difficult to breathe. Ludhiana, October 18, 2006.

Environmental Degradation in Punjab

Smog.JPG
Originally uploaded by harjit524.

This was taken on our way to Jalundhar on GT Road in Ludhiana

India, the original country from where my family came, is an unusual, extremely diverse country. Incredible and alarming is the density of poverty that pervades the country, yet alongside there exists much wealth. This was the third trip to India in my adult life. Despite attempts at economic improvements, there is a severe lack of infrastructure and continual degradation of the environment.

Masks.JPG
Originally uploaded by harjit524.

Realizing what it would be like to live in a city with dangerous levels of pollution, Cherlyn & Lisa take measures to alleviate the congestion they feel in Ludhiana. October 18, 2006.

Punjabigirl.JPG
Originally uploaded by harjit524.

Local Punjabi girl covering up due to the immense pollution in Ludhiana, the Industrial city of India. Ludhiana, Punjab, October 18, 2006.

Crazy Drive on GT Road

PUNJAB

Map of Punjab (click to view)


The main highway to Punjab from Delhi is referred to a GT Road. One challenge is getting out of Delhi, and then the adventure begins. If you have a strong stomach and do not get car sickness, then you may be ok on this drive. Otherwise, a train is highly recommended! Along the way we pass through the state of Haryana (which used to be part of Punjab until the government split Punjab in many subsections). The drive felt like an episode of twilight zone. Old, new, Eastern and Western all come together and the result is complete chaos most of the time!


Elderly Sikh man on his tractor


Big colorful trucks


Angela greeting roadside mechanics


Bags of wheat, hay, cotton and other goods. Punjab is the breadbasket of India. Most people from Punjab are "Jatts" by caste indicative of their farming status. The majority of Punjabi people are of the Sikh faith although they barely make up 2% of India's population.

Kids next to a tractor and a Sikh man and his wife fixin' the old bike


Hekani, Angela and Lisa taking a break and Cherlyn, the little hipster, taking a walk on our way to Jalundhar, Punjab


Standing nearby a Sikh Gurudwara (aka Temple) and a "Dhaba" which is like a fast food Indian roadstop. I have found Dhabas to be more reliable than many restaurants because the food is fresh and made to order. I stick to vegetarian most of the time, and will eat meat when I know it is fresh and the place is trustworthy. Don't be fooled by the cleanliness and modernlike feeling of a restaurant in India- they aren't always the best in terms of taste, quality and safety! I learned through experience!


Hmmm, not quite holding it upright, here is a Sikh man living in Punjab selling US flags at his little shop. He was quite thrilled to see a bunch of Americans passing through.


Before thinking someone's a bad driver, think again in India! Honking the horn is essential (yes, it gets annoying, but don't worry, one gets used to it); drivers communicate by way of blowing their horns, and NOBODY stays on their side of the road in the cities. The lane dividers are purely incidental!


Jack, our cool and calm Tibetan driver, listens to Snoop Dogg in the midst of madness (traffic congestion, pollution, excessive honking, and noise!)