Villager in the City: 2006

19 December 2006

The Greatest Generation...

Unfortunately when our team left Dharamsala for Amritsar, I got notice that my Grandfather had fallen gravely ill. Before leaving for India, I had promised him that I would do Ardas (pray) in Amritsar, the Sikh holy city.

We were in Amritsar until the October 27th, and left for Delhi via train. I knew I needed to go home urgently. I arrived in California late October 28th, and went directly to the hospital where my Grandfather was. I spent that evening and the next day with him until he took his last breath on October 29th.

A.S. Sandhu, 1913-2006

He is the survivor of India's independence from the British, the bloody Partition of Punjab after the British relinquished control of India, and the tragic loss of all his children except his one living daughter. Bloodshed and disease were rampant during that time and medical care was poor, if not absent. He was a true survivor, eternally in chardi kala (high spirits). His dignity, wisdom, talent, and total dedication and integrity inspired awe and respect for him from all who came in contact with him. He lived his belief of purity of mind (ishnan), compassion for all human beings (daan), and unshakable love for God and his creation (naam). He exemplified dignity of labor by being a doer, a creator who was actively involved all his life.

Tom Brokaw wrote a book about the generation of American heroes who were in their prime during the Great Depression and World War II. This generation was linked not only by a common purpose, but also by common values--duty, honor, courage, service, love of family and country, and, above all, responsibility for oneself. In this book, Brokaw introduces people whose everyday lives reveal how a generation persevered through war, and were trained by it. It is said that generation was "the greatest generation any society has ever produced."

Along similar lines, I feel the same way about the Indian men and women who lived during World War II, the fight against British imperialism, the fight for India's independence, and the deadly Partition of Punjab. My grandparents are of this era. Despite losing everything including their home, land, priceless family tree and heirlooms, and the many family members along the way, they remained steadfast in their integrity, dignity, courage, love of family and country, and their responsibility as human beings.

It seems like the end of an era...a time and place that will never be the same again. My Grandfather has been the most influential and dearest person in my life. Coming to terms with his passing is so sad and make me wish for a time long past. My Grandfather's faith in God was deep and his gentleness, yet strength were admirable...He had qualities were exceptional, and I am confident he is someplace very lovely...We celebrated his incredible life and his beautiful legacy.

Sri Harimandar Sahib, where I prayed for my Grandfather

18 November 2006

Pingalwara

Pingalwara Center: A Place for Hope, Health and Happiness

This was a remarkable place, and the story behind it is even more compelling. Pingalwara's formation was sparked in 1934 by Bhagat Puran Singh Ji in Amritsar, Punjab.

For over 14 years, Bhagat Puran Singh devoted himself to caring for an abandoned child with severe disabilities, often carrying him on his back. The Partition of Punjab in 1947, which ultimately led to the creation of Pakistan, was a time of unimaginable suffering and upheaval. Millions of families were forced to leave everything behind in Pakistan to seek safety in India. My own grandparents experienced this harrowing journey, surviving the ordeal but tragically losing many of their children along the way. It was a profoundly traumatic period in India's history, marked by loss and despair.

In 1948, as he began to establish Pingalwara, Bhagat Puran Singh often stood on the streets, reaching out to strangers for help. With the donations he gathered, he provided food, clothing, and medical care for the sick and suffering. He not only fed and bathed those in need but also ensured they received proper medical treatment. No matter the challenges he faced—whether it was war, disease, or harsh weather—his spirit remained unbroken. He consistently rescued those who were stranded, caring for everyone, regardless of their condition.

Pingalwara, which translates to "a house or asylum for the disabled, handicapped, or crippled," opened its doors to a diverse community. It also cares for the elderly, individuals who have experienced abuse, and those suffering from terminal illnesses. The center features a touching museum dedicated to Bhagat Puran Singh, showcasing photographs from his early life and simple belongings. His legacy is a beautiful tapestry woven with compassion and hope.

It is said that "...Pingalwara is full of legends that would never make the newspapers—success stories about those saved from garbage bins in their infancy, girls mistreated and abandoned by their families, and mentally challenged adults who would otherwise face a life in harsh asylums" (All India Pingalwara Charitable Society).

Bhagat Puran Singh was truly a visionary. At a time when many disregarded critical environmental issues, he tirelessly fought for the preservation of nature. He advocated for reforestation, the conservation of natural resources, and a sustainable lifestyle, urging people to limit their reliance on fossil fuels.

During our visit to Pingalwara, we were warmly welcomed by Dr. Inderjit Kaur, who now carries on Bhagat Puran Singh's noble work. She graciously showed us around the main branch, where living quarters and daily classes provide a nurturing environment for neglected children and women with mental impairments. We also visited the branch on the outskirts of Amritsar, home to a school for underprivileged children and a center offering prosthetics and physical therapy. The dedication of the employees and volunteers was deeply inspiring; they were fully committed to teaching, repairing, building, and providing essential services to those in need.

We felt profoundly moved by their efforts and chose to support their cause with a donation, knowing that any contribution would play a critical role in enhancing the lives of those in need. Pingalwara's work is vital, creating a safe and compassionate space for those who need it most.

Photos

Conjoined twins on all vital organs who can never be separated. Pingalwara Center, Amritsar, Punjab. October 26, 2006.

Young girls at the school for the underprivileged.

Child of a woman with severe mental impairment.

Team member, Rebecca and children dancing to Bhangra music.

Sweet, kind children at the school dedicated to the underpriveliged.

A fun-loving girl being cared for in a class for children with cognitive differences.

Children having a nice chuckle.

At the Pingalwara, this is an old school print shop where people are provided with small employment opportunities to publish Bhagat Puran Singh's manuscripts for free public distribution.

Team with Pingalwara President Dr. Inderjit Kaur (pictured second from right). Dr. Inderjit Kaur has been guiding Pingalwara with dedication and compassion since the passing of Bhagat Puran Singh in 1992.

17 November 2006

Dharamsala to Amritsar

A Surprisingly Arduous Journey

Our journey from Dharamsala to Amritsar was absolute madness. The traffic congestion, road closures, detours, and holiday celebrations in honor of Baba Buddha (1506-1631) made traveling quite arduous.

As we finally entered the Amritsar district, I could feel the frustration in the air as traffic turned into a constant stop-and-go rhythm. Each time we halted, I noticed a group of Sikh boys eagerly jumping onto our jeep, ready to clean it and enthusiastically offer beverages. It seemed almost normal to me, but since most of the team members have never traveled in this manner, their reaction was funny. Some thought we were being overwhelmed or even attacked. I took a moment to reassure them, explaining that the holiday was a time for celebration, and the local people were simply expressing their hospitality by cleaning vehicles and offering drinks to travelers along the busy roads. They were not begging or asking for handouts, nor trying to harm us.

We left Dharamsala in the early afternoon but did not reach Amritsar until about 8 PM. Our new drivers were not very skilled, and we really missed our Punjabi-speaking Tibetan drivers. Once we arrived in Amritsar, Tom and his other guide, Hekani, arranged for us to stay at a guest house that was unsettling and rather creepy for most of the team. Some team members refused to stay there, so we opted for the "Ritz Plaza". I wasn’t thrilled about it, but it was the best option we had at that point of the night. It had been an overwhelming day of travel for the team so having a place to stay for the night provided a sense of calm.

The government of Punjab needs to consider improving the conditions of their roads and highways, along with more practical design and infrastructure. Perhaps they could entertain proposals from experts in engineering and architecture as a starting point for much-needed reform and restructuring.

The highlight of our visit to Amritsar was undoubtedly Harimandar Sahib, known as the Sikh Golden Temple to many westerners. Its architectural beauty and serene ambiance left a lasting impression on all of us. Sitting by the water's edge near the Gurudwara instilled a deep sense of peace. I sincerely hope that the administrators continue to uphold its beauty and protect it from any deterioration, as it is a cherished sanctuary for so many.

Lisa and I went to the Golden Temple the night we arrived in Amritsar, October 26, 2006.

15 November 2006

His Holiness the Dalai Lama

It was a rare privilege to have a private audience with His Holiness the Dalai Lama, an opportunity that many have noted as significant. Following our meeting, I took a moment to reflect on the impact of this encounter. I feel inspired to cultivate greater discipline in my meditation practice and to inspire open dialogue and understand in our communities. I am particularly grateful for this opportunity due to the multifaceted role the Dalai Lama plays. He exemplifies both spiritual and political leadership, having dedicated his life to the betterment of the Tibetan people. His efforts in fostering education while encouraging a strong sense of cultural identity are truly admirable. The Dalai Lama is revered as the reincarnation of each of the previous thirteen Dalai Lamas and is believed to be a manifestation of Chenrezig, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. This remarkable lineage dates back to a Brahmin boy who lived during the time of Buddha Shakyamuni.

When addressing his current objectives, His Holiness articulated two primary areas of focus: first, the promotion of essential human values such as compassion, forgiveness, tolerance, contentment, and self-discipline; and second, the advancement of religious harmony and mutual understanding among the world’s major faiths. He emphasized that despite differing philosophies, all major religions share a fundamental message regarding the importance of being good human beings. These commitments are inspiring ideals that can guide our aspirations for a better world. The Dalai Lama possesses a remarkable presence, and I was struck by his strength of mind, character, and intellect. He is proficient in multiple languages and has successfully advocated for the Tibetan cause on a global scale, solidifying his role as a spiritual leader for the Tibetan people.

14 November 2006

Dharamsala, Part II

Education in Dharamsala

We were fortunate enough to interview directors of various Tibetan schools, nunneries and the Transit School. When Tibetan refugees arrive in India, they are transported to the refugee center. They await their rare meeting and personal blessing from His Holiness the Dalai Lama.

After the blessing, younger refugees are placed in the Sherub Gatsel Lobling School (Tibetan Transit School) where they have the option to remain for up to five years. The school has approximately 700 students. There they are taught a trade, language skills, technical training and education along with food and board. These young refugees have the option to stay the five years or leave earlier. After their time at the Transit School, either they go to a regular school, begin working, or are placed in one of the many Tibetan centers all over India. Some go back to Tibet so that the Tibetan culture is preserved and the aim of independence is never forgotten. I was impressed with their organization and outreach to the International community.

We interviewed the Director of a Tibetan and Indian school in Dharamsala who is a very excited about the work he does with the schools. Because the school is a mix of Tibetan and Indian students, he stressed ongoing cultural exchanges during childhood. This ensures a mutual understanding between ethnic Indians and the Tibetans. He told us the Indian government has been good to the Tibetans and allowed them to freely live in Dharamsala, while allowing them to preserve their culture...in many ways better than in Tibet. His Holiness the Dalai Lama has aided his people well, and people all over have been generous to the Tibetans out of care and concern.

School children taking a break at the Tibetan cultural festival. Tibetan school girls out for a walk.

Dining hall for primary school children

My research has led me to the understanding that the schools in Dharamsala are largely in satisfactory condition and are undergoing continuous improvements and modernization efforts. It is encouraging to note that Tibetan schools and the newly established villages in the region benefit from significant support through international philanthropic initiatives. Funding is also provided by esteemed organizations such as the Dalai Lama Foundation, the Tibet Administration, and various governmental programs.

Many Tibetan schools face pressing issues such as the need for enhanced building structures, better quality benches, softer mattresses, and more nutritious food options. The strategies employed by the Tibetan government in exile to develop, maintain, and modernize their educational system can serve as a valuable reference for Indian states that have struggled to achieve similar advancements in their public schools and are working towards enhancing their public education infrastructure. This collaborative spirit may pave the way for future improvements in schooling across the region. It was very inspirational to observe many of these schools in Dharamsala. unable to do the same for their own schools.

Kids in their music class excited to see us!

Tibetan girl dressed for her art and music class.

11 November 2006

My November Posts

India Mission

Our mission in India focused on conducting field research to assess educational and societal issues in rural areas. We aimed to provide funding and programming support to select schools and initiatives that would yield long-term benefits. Our team consisted of one American man, five American women from diverse ethnic backgrounds, and one Indian woman living in Delhi (not pictured below). This eclectic mix brought together different experiences and strengths, which enriched our efforts. I am grateful to my team members, who were genuine in their personal endeavors.

Pictured above are Angela, Cherlyn, Tom, Lisa, Rebecca, and myself.

We developed various ideas and outlined plans to address some of the challenges we encountered in the schools. As the Legal & Education Coordinator at the Center for Community Legal Education in San Francisco, I served as the project leader, translator, writer, and photographer for our group. I also compiled our observations, reflections, and experiences in this blog. My recent posts aim to highlight regions that are often overlooked by global philanthropists.

Technorati Profile

10 November 2006

Tibetans in Dharamsala, India

Dharamsala, city of exile for His Holiness the Dalai Lama and his Tibetan people, has become a very diversified place over the last fifty years. It is like a second home to many Western people, including celebrities, who cheer and support the Tibetan cause.

It is rather easy to get around in Dharamsala since there is much Western influence, but getting there is the hard part! We were fortunate enough to have a reliable driver from Delhi. "Jack," our Tibetan driver had a broad range of influences. He was born and raised in India, speaks English, Tibetan, Punjabi, Hindi, and many other languages, and is learning Spanish and French! He went to Punjab University in Chandigardh, is a practicing Buddhist, and listens to many genres of music. On our drive, he played a wild range of music videos including Snoop Dogg, Maroon 5, Eagles, Cat Stevens, Bhangra, Tibetan, Chinese, and many others. He is the proud father of a baby girl with his wife, whom we had a brief chance to meet in Dharamsala.

The Tibetans, in general, had very genuine qualities of kindness, peacefulness, and an abundant openness to people of all walks of life. Jack, a modern Tibetan in my view, had a fusion of cultural influences from his proud Tibetan heritage, his upbringing in India, interactions with Western travelers, and the effects of globalization.

Many Tibetans in Dharamsala were very open about the growing concern of the survival of their Tibetan culture and identity. Nevertheless, it was refreshing to see that many Tibetans including Jack were adjusting well to modernization, yet thoroughly practicing their religion and honoring their heritage.

Tibetans are doing many things to preserve their culture and promote their cause by having cultural shows, presentations, and concerts. This attracts Western attention, and Dharamsala definitely had many foreigners compared to surrounding areas like Punjab and other states. In the five days we were in Dharamsala, the Tibetans had a protest against the Chinese government's atrocities, Tibetan cultural shows, a candlelight vigil, and a concert against drugs and to promote AIDS awareness.

The Tibetan Unemployment Co-operative Society was happy to announce that weekly a group of new arrival artists from Tibet will entertain visitors, educate the public on Tibetan identity, and encourage support of Tibetan youths.

We noticed pictures of the missing Panchen Lama posted all over Dharamsala. I guess that keeps the search ongoing and keeps fresh the memories of a lost Tibet. Panchen Lama is a title like Vice-President or Prime Minister. According to the Tibetans, the Panchen Lama was 6 years old when he and his parents were "kidnapped" from their home in Tibet by the Chinese government. He has been missing for over 6 years. Panchen means "Great Scholar" and Lama is a word Tibetans use for a religious teacher. Tibetans believe that the Panchen Lama is the protector of all the world's living beings.

Dharamsala

09 November 2006

Village Conditions in Jalundhar District, Punjab

Village Mindset

One of the few homes with a door, home of Late Jagat Singh and his family

During our visit to several villages in the Jalandhar District, we observed a notable disparity between the urban centers and the rural communities. The cities in Punjab face challenges such as pollution, primarily due to smog, as well as issues related to city planning and inadequate landscaping. Nevertheless, these urban areas still enjoy access to essential resources, technology, and modern amenities.

Radisson in Jalundhar city

In contrast, the villages serve as the heart of Punjab’s agricultural workforce, highlighting the region's reputation as the agricultural capital of India. The scenic farms, adorned with lush green pastures, offer a refreshing reprieve from the urban environment. However, we found that many homes in the villages we visited were in significant disrepair.

For instance, in the central area of Khaira Majja village, we noted a few larger houses amidst several that were considerably deteriorated. The stark contrast between the well-maintained home and its dilapidated neighbors was striking, revealing the depth of poverty present in the area.

The women of the village welcomed us graciously, sharing insights into their living conditions. Many residences consisted of one bedroom accommodating multiple family members, with kitchen facilities integrated into the bedroom.

Some team members offered the women money, but I felt conflicted. I know people of Punjab, in general, to be prideful and hardworking people. Many of the women expressed their emotions, tears of pride and sadness evident on their faces, with some of the women reluctantly taking the money. I understood the pride in not wanting to take it, but I was certain that they would use that cash to buy food or necessities for their children.

One woman openly greeted us and said, "Welcome to the homes of the poor. What can we do for you?"

As I looked around, examining their homes, the narrow alleys leading to them, and the overall well-being of the small community, I identified the most significant issue: the mindset of the people.

The weight of poverty can create a sense of hopelessness, making it challenging for individuals to envision pathways to empowerment and improvement for their community. Yet, the resilience and optimism of the Punjabi people were evident. Our team was inspired by the small but meaningful initiatives underway, such as the development of a small generator, the construction of a model school for younger children, and efforts to establish a proper sewage disposal system. The village people were clearly committed to investing in the future of their children, They shared the belief that "we've lived our life and it isn't going to change much, but maybe we could make it a little better for our children."

Pictured above is a "Narlka," which is where several families get their water source for cooking, bathing, and washing.

It is crucial for the state government to enhance support for these communities through increased funding for education, improved access to basic utilities such as electricity and water, and enhanced healthcare services. Additionally, it would be beneficial for villagers to embrace a more proactive approach to uplift their communities, moving beyond a mindset of helplessness toward tangible progress. I firmly believe that one's internal environment greatly influences their external surroundings. If individuals find themselves in challenging mental and physical living situations, it can hinder community vitality.

Approximately 99% of the homes we observed in this village were deteriorating, appearing extremely tarnished and abandoned, even though entire families were living in them. I understand that constructive change must begin from within and then radiate outward. Unfortunately, the villagers cannot implement these changes on their own; they need resources, practical tools, and assistance from external sources.

Pictured are young girls trying to keep a home clean by sweeping the floors.

Mrs. Singh, who is the Sarpanch of the village (leader of the Panchayat), stands before her husband to greet us.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.5 License.

Villager in the City